TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introductions
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is an amorphous plastic made from acrylonitrile, butadiene, and styrene. It is one of the most popular materials for 3D printing due to its affordability and well-balanced mechanical properties. Being a recyclable plastic, ABS comes in a wide range of colors.
Regular ABS is a rigid material that offers moderate toughness and impact resistance. When printed under appropriate conditions, particularly with sufficient heat, ABS can be relatively easy to work with; however, it is prone to warping and cracking in uncontrolled environments.
In terms of chemical resistance and temperature stability, ABS displays moderate resistance. It begins to soften at temperatures ranging from 85°C to 100°C (the Glass Transition and Vicat temperature), depending on the specific filament blend used.
Requirements
To successfully print regular ABS, your printer should be equipped with a heated bed capable of reaching temperatures of up to 90°C. For printing sizable or functional parts, using an enclosure is highly recommended, ideally maintaining temperatures between 45°C to 80°C. An enclosure helps to ensure consistent heat within the build volume. For very large parts, thin components, or those with a high infill percentage, a heated chamber is advisable to minimise the risk of warping or cracking. Additionally, for specialised ABS resin blends, a heated chamber is essential to prevent warping.
Printer Set-up
Loading and Unloading Filament
Changing between two ABS materials:
If your printer is currently loaded with a different ABS material, unload it at 240-260°C, then load and extrude the new ABS filament at the same temperature. Stop extruding once the previous color has been completely purged.
Changing from a higher temperature material:
If you're switching from a higher temperature material (e.g., PC), unload it at its recommended printing temperature. Load and extrude your ABS filament at this same temperature initially to push out the previous material. After the old material has been purged, lower the temperature to 240-260°C and continue extruding the ABS for a few additional seconds.
Changing from a lower temperature material:
When switching from a lower temperature material, unload it at its recommended printing temperature. Then, load and extrude your ABS filament at 240-260°C. Again, stop extruding once the previous material has been fully purged.
Bed Surface
In our experience we have found the smooth sheets are better than Glass/PC or texture PEI for ABS printing as the sheets are more durable and the adhesive helps to prevent the sheets lifting when the heated bed is set for ABS temperatures.
It is possible to slice damage these sheets as bubbles can form if the ABS parts warp. However if you remove the parts gently and set your nozzle height correctly, these sheets can last longer than other surfaces or using Magigoo. Textured is recommenced for ABS, unless you need mirror finish for first layer.
Heated Glass Bed with Glue Stick
Printing ABS directly onto a heated glass bed using a PVA glue stick is an excellent approach. The glass surface provides a remarkably smooth and shiny finish to the bottom of your prints. We recommend applying a layer of PVA glue stick, which serves as a release agent, making it easier to remove the finished print.
Once the 3D print is completed, it’s important to remove it from the build plate while the temperature is still high. Removing the print after the bed cools may cause the glass to break, as the print can shrink more rapidly than the glass plate.
This printing technique is best suited for enclosed printers or those with a controlled chamber temperature, and ensuring the correct nozzle height is crucial when printing on glass.
However, it is no longer widely recommended, as most printers now come equipped with textured PEI build plates. This is because ABS can sometimes shrink during the cooling process, which may damage or chip the bed surface.
Bed Leveling & Nozzle Height
Achieving a strong first layer when printing ABS is crucial, necessitating perfect bed levelling and correct nozzle height settings.
To ensure optimal adhesion, it's recommended to level the bed and adjust the nozzle height while the bed is preheated to 100-110°C. This accounts for the typical placement of thermistors under the bed.
These day, most printer are shipping with nozzle strain gauge or probe, just ensure you re-probe for Z right before start gcode if you're using "DIY Printer" with your own start gcode.
Pre-Heating
For the best results, preheat the build plate to 100°C at least 15-30 minutes before starting your ABS print (with printer without chamber sensor). Larger printers, colder climates, or lower-wattage heated beds may require preheating for longer (up to 2 hours) to avoid warping. If you have a spare or chamber thermistor, it's advisable to wait for the chamber to reach the desired temperature before printing.
For printers with actively controlled chamber heating, preheating the build plate to 90°C and the chamber to between 50-60°C for 5 minutes is recommended or when its reaches desire chamber temperature of 60°C or more.
Enclosure
Maintaining a high-temperature environment is vital for printing ABS, as inadequate conditions can lead to excessive internal stress, causing warping and compromising mechanical strength. While an enclosure isn't strictly necessary for small parts, it's highly beneficial for medium to large-sized prints. Enclosed printers often feature top lids or doors that can be opened or removed; for ABS printing, we recommend closing the lid to retain internal heat.
To increase safety and air quality, consider using an active filtering system or ensure the printing area is well-ventilated when printing ABS.
Filament Storage
ABS is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from its surroundings. Moisture in the filament can lead to issues such as bubbles between layers, poor layer adhesion, inconsistent extrusion, and subpar surface quality. While ABS can absorb moisture over months, high humidity environments (like those with evaporative air-conditioning) can accelerate this process to just days. Specialised filled materials, like Filled ABS with Sparkle, Glass Fiber, or Carbon Fiber, can absorb moisture in less than a day.
Removing Moisture:
To remove moisture, dry the filament by placing it in a preheated convection oven set to 60°C for 8 hours. Ensure the oven has accurate temperature control and preheat it to avoid overheating, which can fuse the filament.
Preventing Moisture Absorption:
To fully prevent moisture absorption, store and print your ABS materials in an environment below 10% humidity. This approach will typically negate the need for drying, as excessive drying can degrade the plastic.
We recommend storing filaments in resealable bags with desiccants when not in use. In areas with high humidity, consider utilising a dry box for printing.
Printer Settings
Nozzle Temperature
ABS is categorised as a high-temperature material, typically printing within the range of 240°C to 270°C. The optimal printing temperature may vary based on the specific printer and filament brand, as some manufacturers add additives to their ABS formulations to adjust the printing temperature, such as Carbon Fiber or Glass Fiber enhancements.
Higher extrusion temperatures generally improve flow and layer adhesion, making them ideal for mechanical parts. Conversely, lower temperatures allow the plastic to cool and solidify more quickly, which can be beneficial for enhancing the quality of overhangs and facilitating easier support removal.
As a starting point, try a temperature in the middle of the manufacturer's suggested range. For example, if they recommend 240°C to 260°C, printing at 250°C is a sound choice. If your extruder cannot reach the highest recommended temperature, opt for the lower end of the range. Adjust temperatures in increments of ±5-10°C based on print quality, and consider using a temperature tuning tower to find the best balance of quality and strength.
Troubleshooting Nozzle Temperature
Too Hot: Excessively high temperatures may result in wisps or stringing on the print surface, fusion of support material, sagging in overhangs, and unpleasant odors during printing (especially pronounced with certain ABS brands).
Not Hot Enough: Insufficient temperatures can compromise mechanical properties due to poor layer adhesion. This could lead to under-extrusion, characterised by uneven or rough surfaces, and might cause nozzle blockages if the filament doesn’t melt adequately.
Bed Temperature
Printing with ABS requires a heated bed set to 70°C to 100°C. While some blends like ABS+ may work at lower bed temperatures, those made from more pure or varied ABS resins typically require higher temperatures.
Avoid exceeding a heated bed temperature above the glass transition temperature of ABS, which is 110°C.
Controlled Chamber Temperature
While a controlled chamber is not mandatory for printing ABS parts, it is crucial for those looking to print medium to large-sized parts without warping. An actively heated chamber mitigates internal stress, resulting in minimal warping.
For printers equipped with passive or active heating systems, aim for a chamber temperature of 60-70°C. At this range, ABS generally prints with low residual stress, often yielding near-zero warping or cracking. For fine details requiring more cooling, lower chamber temperatures of 50-60°C may be beneficial. All testing and examples in our documentation are based on printers capable of achieving chamber temperatures of 60-80°C.
Cooling
When printing with ABS, it's advisable to keep the part cooling fan off to maximise layer adhesion. If your printer allows fan speed control, setting the fan to 10-20% can improve overhang quality and reduce sagging. A fix fan is recommenced, as dramatically can sometimes lead to part warping due to uneven cooling.
Rafts
While a raft is not necessary for ABS printing, it can assist with bed adhesion in cases where the printing surface is not perfectly leveled, thereby minimising warping. When using a raft in conjunction with an ABS model, it should detach easily after printing.
Supports
For models printed with supports in ABS, those supports should separate cleanly and effortlessly. If supports are fusing to the model, reduce the printing temperature by -5°C or increase the gap between the model and supports. Conversely, if supports collapse during the print, increasing support density and using a raft can enhance support adhesion.
Dual Extrusion
Support & Raft:
Dedicated support materials compatible with ABS include HIPS, which is a limonene-soluble support option.
Dual Colour / Material:
ABS filaments typically adhere well to other ABS-based materials, making them ideal for dual-color printing.
Post 3D Printing
After completing your ABS print, the method of removal will depend on your build platform.
PEI Flex Sheet: Allow the print to cool; in most cases, the part will release itself from the plate.
Rigid Build Platforms: For glass or aluminium platforms, a sharp paint scraper can facilitate easy model removal.
Note: For prints on glass, they must be removed while the platform is hot. Attempting removal after cooling may cause the glass to break due to differing shrink rates between the print and glass.
If the platform is fixed, support it with your second hand to prevent uneven pressure, which could affect bed levelling.
- Flexible Build Platforms: Some printers utilise flexible build plates, allowing users to flex the plate for easier print removal.
Removing Layer Lines
ABS can be post-processed to eliminate layer lines and achieve a smoother finish. It sands easily for professional applications. Using finer resolutions and a filler primer can significantly reduce sanding and post-processing time.
ABS can also be chemically smoothed using a technique known as acetone vapor smoothing. Variations of this method, including some that use heat, can expedite the smoothing process. Cold vapor smoothing usually takes **1-3
Note: Some ABS+ Blend may not suitable for acetone vapor smoothing or joining.
Painting
ABS plastics can be easily painted using both acrylic and enamel-based paints. To achieve the best results, it’s advisable to remove layer lines and perform any necessary cleanup on the model before painting.
Joining
Parts printed in ABS can be joined with a variety of techniques
Glue
Joining ABS parts with adhesives is straightforward. Super Glue or two-part epoxies work well for this purpose. For stronger bonds, we recommend sanding the contact surfaces with coarse sandpaper. This increases the surface area for adhesion, resulting in a more durable joint.
Solvent Welding
Solvent welding is another effective method for joining ABS parts, utilising acetone as the bonding agent. To perform solvent welding:
- Use a paintbrush to apply acetone to one of the contact surfaces.
- Carefully align and join the two parts together.
- Clamp or hold the parts in place for several minutes to allow the contact surfaces to fuse and dry.
This technique creates a strong, seamless bond between the components.
Trouble Shooting
Blocked Nozzle / Filament Jam
When 3D Printing it is possible to encounter filament jams or nozzle blockages, these blockages can be caused due to a variety of reasons.
Causes and Steps to Prevent Nozzle Blockage and filament jams.
Filament jams and nozzle blockages can occur during 3D printing due to several factors. If the filament cannot move through the extruder, the extruder gear will continue to push the filament, potentially causing it to "chew out." If you hear a clicking or clunking sound from the extruder, this indicates a jam or an impending blockage.
Causes and Prevention Tips
Too Low Extruder Temperature: If the extruder temperature is too low, ABS filament will struggle to flow. Adjusting to the appropriate nozzle temperature typically resolves this issue.
Excessive Friction: High friction on the filament can hinder its feeding. Experiment with different spool holder positions (above, beside, or behind the printer) to alleviate this.
Incorrect Nozzle Height: If the nozzle is set too close to the bed, filament flow may be restricted, leading to jams. This is especially critical at finer layer heights (0.1 mm or 0.05 mm). Ensure correct bed leveling and nozzle height.
Warping or Lifting: If a print warps or lifts off the bed, it can push against the nozzle, restricting extrusion. Addressing warping is crucial.
Finer Nozzles: Blockages are more common with smaller nozzles. Most 3D printers use 0.4 mm nozzles; adjust print speed and extrusion settings if using a smaller nozzle (e.g., 0.2 mm).
Poor Quality Filament: Filament that is oval-shaped or inconsistent in diameter can cause jams. The industry standard for filament tolerance is ±0.05 mm; for a 1.75 mm filament, acceptable variance is between 1.70 mm - 1.80 mm. Brands with better quality control often offer tolerances of ±0.02 mm.
Cleaning a ABS Nozzle Blockage
If the nozzle is clogged with ABS, one effective method is to use a tougher, higher-temperature material, such as Polycarbonate (PC) or cleaning filament and doing cold pull. Feed this material through the extruder at its recommended printing temperature (250°C) to help purge the clogged ABS.
Alternatively, you can soak the blocked nozzle in acetone for at least 24 hours to dissolve the ABS.
Warping
Warping is a common issue when printing with higher temperature amorphous materials like ABS. It occurs due to internal stress within the printed part, primarily caused by the filament's polymer chains wanting to revert to their original state after being extruded.
Preventing ABS Warping
Bed Adhesion: Insufficient bed adhesion or incorrect nozzle height can lead to early warping. Ensure proper levelling and use suitable printing surfaces for ABS.
Environmental Factors: Drafts and low temperatures can increase internal stress. An enclosure helps retain heat around the heated bed.
Enclosure Size: In smaller enclosed volumes (e.g., 150 x 150 x 150 mm), the build plate’s heat will raise the internal temperature more efficiently than in larger prints (e.g., 250 x 250 x 250 mm). Longer preheating times may be necessary for larger printers.
Infill Density: A lower infill percentage can reduce internal stress. Printing with an infill above 20% is ideal; higher percentages may cause significant warping.
Raft Usage: Printing with a raft can help extend the edges of the part, allowing the raft to warp instead of the main model.
Active Heating: Using a printer equipped with an actively heated chamber can significantly reduce warping when printing larger ABS parts (e.g., 300 x 300 x 300 mm).
Poor Layer Adhesion
Poor layer adhesion can arise from under-extrusion, leading to gaps and inconsistencies in the print. Key steps to improve layer adhesion include:
Correct Nozzle Temperature: Ensure you're extruding ABS at the correct temperature for consistent flow to minimise drag.
Moisture Contamination: Moisture in filament can create bubbles as it passes through the hot end, compromising mechanical properties. Dry the filament to address moisture issues and store it properly to avoid future absorption.
Nasty smell during printing
ABS typically emits a noticeable odor while printing. Here are steps to minimise this issue:
Temperature Control: Printing at elevated temperatures can intensify odors. Reducing the nozzle temperature may help.
Brand Variance: Different brands of ABS can produce varying levels of odor. Consider using lower-odor options, like Polymaker's PolyLite™ ABS.
Ventilation: Ensure proper ventilation in the printing area to reduce the impact of odors. Enclosed printers may minimise odor escape.
Filtration Systems: Some 3D printers come with HEPA or carbon filters, which can help mitigate smells during ABS printing. For example Nevermore Carbon.
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